Sunday, January 27, 2013

The Original Jackson Prison

One of the first agenda items when Michigan became the 26th state in 1837 was the establishment of a state prison.  When the state sought a location for the new facility, bids were received from numerous cities including Ann Arbor, Jackson, and Kalamazoo.  Even in those early days, communities saw employment and other economic advantages in housing a prison.

The state ultimately settled on Jackson for the site.  Jackson County was the most centrally situated of the state’s 14 counties (which, according to the first census of Michigan, collectively housed roughly 60,000 residents; that number would climb to 212,000 by the 1840 Federal Census).
 
Funds were allocated for the construction of a temporary prison, which opened in 1839.  It was constructed of tamarack logs.
(These and other painted Illustrations are from murals painted within the original stone prison by residents of the artist’s colony which now occupies one of the structures)
The wooden structure was intended to house prisoners while their labor was being used to construct a more secure and permanent facility from stone quarried from the area and barged down the Grand River, which ran near the site.  Indeed, a party of 12 inmates escaped from the wooden structure during its brief existence.  Widely known as The Jackson Gang, the escapees preyed on residents of the community for years.

 
The new stone structure that opened in 1842 proved less porous than the wooden stockade had been.  Over time, additional buildings were constructed to house the burgeoning population.  Inmates led a bleak life, locked each night in 4’x5’ cells within a drafty structure that lacked heating, ventilation, and plumbing (each prisoner was provided with a bucket into which to do his business).  The ventilation was so bad that caged canaries were hung in the corridors between the cellblocks.  If a guard noticed that a canary had toppled from its perch, he was advised to release the prisoners into the yard to get some fresh air.   But even in the yard, the prisoners were confined by 16’ stone walls with occasional guard towers staffed with armed guards with orders to shoot any attempted escapists.  


Guards travelled between the cellblock buildings and the towers through 4’ high underground tunnels that periodically rose to a height of 5-½to allow the hunched over staff to periodically almost stand up.
(Imagine the tunnels without the recently added infrastructure renovations)
While the cells were bleak, they were plush compared to The Hole—the disciplinary cell into which problematic prisoners were placed.   Shut off by solid steel doors with a slot through which meals were delivered, inmates in The Hole lived in permanent darkness.  They were told to do their sanitary business using a trough which ran around the perimeter of the cell.  Under the regime of one of the early superintendents, new inmates were greeted with an initial 14 day stay in The Hole to impress upon them the importance of abiding by the discipline imposed upon them.   That discipline included the Code of Silence.  Any prisoner caught speaking aloud to—to another prisoner, to a guard (unless the guard initiated the conversation), or even to himself—could find himself in The Hole.
Meanwhile, the prison presented to the surrounding community was more welcoming.  On frequent occasions, the public was invited within the walls to participate in special events.

 (The mural illustrates a watermelon festival held in the prison)

The 5-story tower in the illustration housed the areas where lawyers were permitted to meet with their inmate clients, as well as the primitive medical facility available to inmate, and a separate area later used to conduct classes for cooperative inmates who hoped to pursue a more productive career upon release.  The warden and his family lived on the third and fourth floors.  Guards and other prison staff resided outside the walls.
While the state’s handful of women prisoners were originally housed in the Jackson facility, it was clear that imprisoning men and women in the same facility wasn’t going to turn out well. The women inmates were moved to a separate facility elsewhere in Michigan in 1859. All but one. Serving a life sentence, she (who, in all likelihood didn’t remotely resemble the muralist’s rendering of her) remained at the Jackson Prison until the warden persuaded the Governor to commute her sentence at the age of 80 so she could spend her remaining years living with her daughter outside the walls. But during most of her incarceration, she did the cooking and housekeeping for the warden and his family and babysat the children on the rare occasions that he and his wife had a social commitment outside the walls. Apparently, nobody bothered to determine the crime that had earned her that life sentence—poisoning three of her own children.
Disclaimer:  Doubts have been raised about the authenticity of the muralist's
depiction of the prison's last woman prisoner.
 
Trusted and athletic prisoners were sometimes permitted to participate in these events, and a prison baseball team was even formed.  (Guards accompanied the team to away games.)


From the start, the prison was intended to be self-sufficient.   A farm was established within the walls.  Over time, additional industries were created and factories constructed within the walls.  Bricks, soap, clothing, brooms, and brushes were made for sale in the wider world, as were gravestones and monuments.  In 1918, prisoners began manufacturing license plates for horseless carriages that were becoming increasingly popular in Michigan.


All of that manufacturing required transportation to the market, and largely because of the prison industries the city of Jackson came to have six different railroad lines leading into it.  A separate spur permitted trains entry through the wall, and even into some of the prison buildings.  Buildings and the surrounding walls were retrofitted,
(Above:  Train portal through the outer walls;
Below:  Train portal into a prison factory which
has been rehabbed to house artists' studios
)
Through a state agent, inmates were also contracted by local farmers and industrialists as cheap labor.  Prison labor was originally priced at 33½ cents per day (not per hour), with 28½ cents of that wage going to the state to cover the prison’s cost in housing and feeding him.  The remaining 5 cents was set aside to establish a grubstake for the prisoner upon his release.   Working under contracts that typically lasted five years, the prison built rent-free shops for manufacturers to use.   Prisoners working outside the walls were shackled during their walk to and from the prison and were under the supervision of armed prison guards while at work.
One of the most prominent employers of Jackson prisoners was the Austin, Tomlinson & Webster Manufacturing Co., which began making farm wagons in 1842.  The company’s Jackson Wagons achieved national prominence for their durability and reliability.  At the company’s peak, it was producing over 6,000 wagons annually, ranging from small ones designed to be pulled by a goat to huge ones requiring teams of oxen.  They proved to be the top-selling wagon among settlers heading west for the Gold Rush.  Perhaps their most famous customer was P. T. Barnum, who contracted with them to build a wagon big and strong enough to transport Jumbo (the elephant who allegedly was 10’ tall and weighed 6½ tons) in circus parades after his arthritic knees could no longer handle the walking.

But not all of the prisoners were happy campers.  After a disgruntled prisoner set a fire in 1852 that destroyed several of the company’s buildings, the company and other contractors began paying inmate workers bonuses which served as an incentive (AKA bribe) to perform more reliably.  The practice ensured smooth operation for 15 years until a state investigation barred the bonus practice as not punishing prisoners sufficiently.  Within a month of the ban, “accidental” fires caused over $100,000 of damage to contractors’ workshops.

Moving to the New Prison
 
While additions were periodically added to the prison to accommodate its growing population, it became clear over time that a new facility would be needed.  In 1924, construction began (by contractors this time, not prison laborers) of a modern prison (i.e., incorporating electricity, plumbing, and heating) on a patch of nearly 3,500 acres in nearby Blackman Township.  34 foot walls enclosed an area of 57 acres containing 16 free-standing cell blocks collectively comprising 5,742 10’ x 6’ cells.   While the cell blocks were windowless, the cells within each block were arranged on 5 levels surrounding a central dining area on the first floor.  Walls between cells were solid, but the front and back walls of each cell were barred.  Jail maintenance staff could access each cell’s plumbing and electrical circuits from a hallway that ran between the back of the cell and the cell block wall.

Starting in 1926, inmates of the old facility were slowly migrated over to the new one.  Since the structures were only three miles apart, groups of prisoners were shackled together and marched to the new prison by guards.  
The prisoners were undoubtedly pleased (well, as pleased as an involuntary guest of the Michigan Department of Corrections is likely to become) to be housed in better accommodations, but controversy arose when the warden announced plans to destroy the canaries that had provided alerts to dangerous gases in the old prison.  The long-term prisoners had grown attached to the birds and complained that there was no need to destroy the innocent creatures.  The warden finally relented and agreed to free the canaries once the original prison had closed.  Ironically, prison management had fed the birds better than it had the inmates.  The birds had subsisted on high quality Hartz Mountain songbird feed—a blend of various seeds.  Once the birds had been released, it became obvious that one of the sources of seeds in the blend had been the Cannabis plant.  Undigested seeds passed through the gut of the freed canaries resulted in the Jackson area having an exceptionally luxuriant population of wild marijuana.
By 1934, all the prisoners had been moved.  After the cells had been torn out of one cellblock, a hardwood floor was installed and the building was repurposed as a National Guard armory. Unique electric chandeliers were created from the huge wheels on the carriages that moved Civil War cannons.  Eventually, a dedicated armory was built, and the original facility was once again vacant.
 
Repurposing the Old Prison
Eventually, someone figured out what to do with the site. More than $8 million has been raised from foundations, donors, tax credits, a federal home loan, and community development block grants to convert an abandoned cellblock and one of the dormant factories within the 25-foot wall to art studios, a gallery, and 62 one, two-, and three-bedroom apartments, many featuring 18-foot ceilings.  Occupancy is limited to working artists, and the mixture of dancers, painters, sculptors, poets, writers, and others who began moving in early in 2008 make for a lively bunch.  (They report that the three foot thick stone walls keep their apartments cool in the summer and warm in the winter.)   A series of small shops offer visitors an opportunity to purchase works produced by the residents.
Additional funding promises the conversion of additional space into 88 townhouse units for senior citizens.
Armory Arts Village resident and master storyteller Judy Krasnow was drawn to the development when she first heard of it and became one of the first residents when she moved up from Florida.  Intrigued by the setting, Krasnow began researching the history of the old prison.  Working with current and former prison guards in the Jackson area, she found all of fascinating information.  She began arranging guided public tours of the facility, together with visits to the studios of some of the artists in residence.  When I took the tour a cousin and her husband in August, 2012, we had the opportunity to visit the studios of woodcarver Carol A. Kent and acrylic painter and woodburner Lou Cubille. 

(Above, woodcarver Carol A. Kent with a casting of one of her carvings.
Below:  Other than the eyes [acrylic paint], Lou Cabille's wolf
was produced solely by woodburning)


 
Krasnow had also arranged a contract with the Michigan Department of Corrections which allowed our guide and us a glimpse into the real, working prison down the road from the original one. 
After the federal government ruled that the sheer size of the new facility inherently led to inhumane conditions, eight of the sixteen cellblocks were shuttered.  The closed cellblock that we were permitted to visit had been the reception center.  Every prisoner entering the custody of MDOC initially resided in that structure during a quarantine period (for health reasons) and while the determination was made where to house them within the Jackson complex.  Some areas of the complex were medium security, while others were high or even maximum security. 
Cameras were not permitted during this portion of our tour, but the reality of seeing five floors of barred cells was sobering.  When our guides pushed the button to open or close the sliding doors of a dozen cells at a time, the sound was eerie.

The End of the Line for Prisoners


The tour ended after we were returned to the old prison to visit the gift shop.  Marilyn, Dick, and I, however, didn’t want it to end.   We checked with our guide and learned that prisoners who died in either the old or the new prison and whose bodies went unclaimed were buried in the prison plot of nearby Woodland Cemetery.  We found a bleak scene. 

The tombstones reflected the bleak and anonymous nature of a lifer’s prison life.  Most were marked only with sequential numbers reflecting the order in which burials had occurred. 
 
On occasion, loved ones would pay for a more personalized marker reflecting the date of death.  Even these, though, lacked the prisoner’s name. 
 
It was as though the individual’s identity had entirely faded away during his time within the walls. 
Eventually, even the tombstone might cease to exist.
 
 
 
 
Booking Your Own Tour
As I write this, the 2012 tour season has ended.  Judy and her crew will certainly resume and maybe even expand them.  The historicprisontoursjackson.com site seems to have gone dark, but that’s probably only a temporary glitch.  In addition to the regular daytime tours, they also offer a limited number of evening events during which visitors can determine whether or not the place is haunted.
E-mail historicprisontoursjackson@gmail.com for more information.
 
(Left:  Marilyn  (my cousin) & Dick Ludman in front of the wall surrounding the old prison.
Right:  Marilyn with a cutout of tour originator Judy Krasner re-enacting Temperance activist Carrie Nation
) 



 
     
 
 

 
 
 


 


 

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

R.I.P. Detroit's Big Stove


Long before Detroit became the Motor City, it was bustling factory town. As early as 1880, the city was recognized as the center of US stove production. We had ascended to that prominence relatively quickly, given that James and Jeremiah Dwyer had started the city's first stove factory only 20 years earlier at the foot of Mt. Elliott. Early stoves manufactured in Detroit could burn wood, coal, or coke, but the industry evolved to accommodate natural gas once supply systems were put in place in major cities.

Even in the late 19th Century, manufacturers recognized
the value of publicity. That's why the Michigan Stove Company decided to display a truly giant stove at the 1893 World Columbian Exposition in Chicago. That world's fair was intended to welcome the world to the Windy City while commemorating the 400th anniversary of Columbus' discovery of the New World.


An unknown sculptor (possibly either John Tab
aczuk or Joachim Jungwirth) constructed a stove 25 feet tall, 30 feet long, and 20 feet wide. Its weight was estimated at about 15 tons. Unlike real stoves, it was mainly built of wood (white pine, redwood, basswood, and possibly some spruce). But the exterior was carved and painted to resemble the company's popular Garland nickel trimmed cast iron model.

To further enhance the giant stove's prominence at the Chicago fair, it was placed on a 20 foot high platform and surrounded by various sta
te-of-the-art stoves that might interest consumers.


After the fair closed, the Stove was dismantled, shipped back to Detroit, and re-erected in front of the Michigan Stove Company factory on East Jefferson.

Detroit's stove industry was still booming. Five firms dominated Detroit stove production:
  • The Art Stove Company
  • The Detroit Stove Works
  • The Detroit Vapor Stove Company
  • The Michigan Stove Company
  • The Penninsular Stove Company
  • The Art Stove Company
By 1922, these companies and their competitors in Detroit employed thousands of workers to build over 400,000 units and sell them for over $10 million.

In 1927, the Stove was moved further down East Jefferson to a position near the Belle Isle Bridge.

In 1955, the Michigan Stove Company's successor, the Welbilt Company, went out of business. The Stove was leased to the Schafer Bakery Company and used as an icon for a different industry. And when Schafer was no longer interested in it, the Stove was given to the City of Detroit in 1965 and moved to the Michigan State Fairground at Woodward and Eight Mile Road.

Having been exposed to the elements for virtually all of its existence, the Stove was showing its age. So it was once again dismantled and its parts were stored at the Fort Wayne Historic Museum.

Detroiters remembered it, though, and wanted it back. The City's History Department was able to recruit corporations, trade unions, and individuals to restore the damaged parts. And the Stove was once again re-erected at the Fairgrounds in time for the opening of the 150th Michigan State Fair in 1998. (Meecheegander notes with pride that Michigan was the first state to host a State Fair.)

The Stove remained there for another 23 years, even after the state's dismal economy forced the cancellation of the State Fair after the 2009 event.

On August 13 2011, Meecheegander was riding up Woodward with friends after they'd spent the day exploring some of Detroit's historical landmarks. As they passed the Fairgrounds, he saw the Stove through the trees and remarked on it. It turned out his friends had never known the significance of the Giant Stove even though they must have seen it when they took their kids (who are now grown) to the State Fair.

And they never will see it. During a thunderstorm that hit shortly after we got to their home just off Woodward and 11 Mile Road, lightning struck the Stove. By the time anyone noticed that the structure was on fire, the Detroit Fire Department declared the Stove to be a lost cause.

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

One Could Choose a Worse Role Model

I don't follow baseball with the same rabid intensity I did 10 or 20 years ago. Even in those days, though, I never confused admiration with adulation. Worshiping athletes is the stuff of childhood. Adults are all too aware that superstars of any sort have feet of clay. Witness the Roger Clemens trial that's currently underway.

But there are a couple of baseball players I sincerely admire, as much for their character as their achievements. This is about one of them.


You had to be living in Detroit in 1976 to fully appreciate the impact that Mark Fidrych had on the Tigers when he made his first major league start in mid-May. (And he only got that start because the scheduled starter was down with the flu.) He threw a complete game 2-1 victory, not yielding the first of his two hits until the eighth inning.

He would go on to win 19 games and lead the league with a 2.34 ERA. He was also named the starting pitcher in the All Star Game and Rookie of the Year and came in second in voting for the Cy Young Award,

What really captivated fans, though, was his boyish enthusiasm. The gangly 21 year old who was nicknamed The Bird because of his uncanny resemblance to the Big Bird character on Sesame Street was everyone's inner child suddenly transported to center stage. He talked to the baseball. He crouched down and manicured the mound at the start of each inning. He cheered like a madman at the plays his fielders made to back him up. By the time he led the Tigers to a win over the Yankees in a nationally televised game in late June, he had fans from coast to coast.

He was a genuine goofball. I remember watching an interview when he was asked what he wanted more than anything else. After pondering the question, he said he'd always wanted to own a dump truck.

1976 was the Year of the Bird. The Tigers gave him a $25,000 bonus after the season ended and signed him to a three-year contract worth $255,000. Given that the minimum salary for Major League Baseball was around $35,000 then (it's now about $410,000), this was a significant raise but less than an astronomical one.

Alas, 1976 was also pretty much the extent of The Bird's career. He tore knee cartilage during
Spring Training in 1977. Six weeks into the season, he felt his arm go dead. That injury wouldn't be diagnosed as a torn rotator cuff and repaired until 1985, five years after he'd reluctantly retired. During the 1977-1980 seasons, he compiled a 10-10 record.

But the fans remembered him. He'd frequently be stopped by strangers back home in Massachusetts and asked for his autograph. When fans would offer condolences for his ill fortune, he'd admonish them. What was there to be sorry about? He'd fulfilled his dream of pitching in the major leagues. He'd then gone home and married the girl he loved. They had a nice home and a lovely daughter. He had a successful business that he enjoyed. And strangers frequently stopped him to shake his hand. What more could a person ask out of life?

The last time I saw Mark Fidrych was during the ceremonies following the last game in Tiger Stadium at the end of the 1999 season. Retired players in uniform trotted out one by one from the center field gate to their old positions. I thought nothing would surpass the acclaim that greeted Al Kaline emerging and headed for right field (known as Kaline's Corner in Tiger Stadium), but I was wrong. When Fidrych sprinted onto the field and ran to the mound at full bore, the fans erupted into cries of Bird! Bird! Bird!

He squatted down, pulled empty plastic bags from his uniform pocket, and began filling them with dirt from the mound. When questioned about this later, he said that an awful lot of people had helped him make it to the Major Leagues and that he wanted to share with them mementos of his career. The dirt would be part of those mementos.

I hope the mementos got constructed and shared before Fidrych's untimely death on April 13, 2009. Working on repairs beneath one of his company's 10 wheel dump trucks, his clothes got ensnared in a spinning take-off shaft and suffocated him.

Thinking back to his brief but meteoric career, I can't help thinking about the ghost-written autobiography that came out after that 1976 season. It's a typical spur-of-the-moment cash-in-on-the-moment book, not really worth the effort of reading. But the title is pure Bird: No Big Deal.

Rest in peace, Mark Fidrych. You and your enthusiasm and your humility were a very big deal for me. Your head was screwed on pretty well.

"Sometimes I get lazy and let the dishes stack up, but they don't stack too high. I've only got four dishes."








Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Introduction

This blog had its genesis with the preparations to host a national professional conference in metropolitan Detroit.

Since 1985, I've been associated with AIRS, the Alliance of Information and Referral Services. Our practitioners are the folks who staff 2-1-1 centers and community helplines across the US and Canada, as well as the folks who support the staff who work the phones. And since around 1993, I've been on the Board of Directors of MI-AIRS, Michigan's affiliate to the national AIRS.

When the decision was made to hold the 2011 AIRS Training and Education Conference in Michigan (the Hyatt Regency in Dearborn, to be more precise), MI-AIRS agreed to provide substantial help to the AIRS staff. I agreed to help stoke up interest in the Conference by writing a series of posts to the primary listserv read by I&R professionals.

The postings (57 of them, running from 4/10/11 through 6/5/11, the opening day of the Conference) were intended both to educate readers and to entertain them. Topics viewed from Michigan and Detroit trivia to tourist information.

It turned out to be a lot more work than I had anticipated. It also turned out to be immensely rewarding. I realized how deeply embedded a Michigander I am.

Not wanting to let go of that satisfaction, I've decided to continue the postings in this forum. Not on a daily basis though. Instead, I'm going to post when the muse strikes me.

--Dick Manikowski

PS--As for the Meecheegander name for this blog, that's the identity I assumed for the listserv postings. The Yahoo user name Michigander was already taken, so I became Meecheegander. Meecheegander is also my Twitter handle, but those postings aren't necessarily focused on the Great Lakes State.